Rush Hour: the reality show.

Remember the board game "rush hour"? The one where you had to a poor driver in his red car get out of the traffic jam. I'm convinced Beirut inspired it. Every corner is an iron jungle, with cars lining up bumper-to-bumper, bumper-to-head, bumper-to-side, side-to-side, heading in all directions. Every driver is fiercely attempting to gain any inch of pavement he can get; his hands constantly busying themselves shifting gears, honking and abruptly turning the wheel; his feet constantly going from gas to break, break to gas. Any other apparatus in the car is trivial. For instance, flashers are unused, making it anyone's guess as to where the next car intends to go. Traffic lights are few, sometimes they are replaced by young policemen, sweating in their blue army uniform. Even if present, lights and policemen remain a suggestion (except for a few key intersections). In fact, there is only one road rule in Lebanon: "do what you must"; even if it means crossing oncoming traffic, pulling a sudden u-turn, backing up on the highway or even driving up a one-way street in the wrong direction. As a pedestrian, you must force your way through , head high, walking quickly and exploiting the slightest gap between cars. You will make it to the other side, Inch Allah!

This chaotic traffic is part of the excitement of Beirut, reminding anyone that despite all, the city is still alive, albeit maybe a little unruly and dangerous.