Far away, in the mountains

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Originally uploaded by laurence.butetroch

So far, I have only written about Beirut and its wild manners, but only a few miles away, rests a much more peaceful place. In order to get to Laqlouq, you need to cross Beirut's northern suburbs. Although, 35 years ago, Jounieh and the surrounding communities were small villages amidst green fields, they've been transformed into dense cities. So dense in fact, that it is hard to distinguish between them and the capital city. This urbanisation of the outskirts of Beirut is a consequence of the war. The maronite community, fearing the violence in the streets of Beirut, escaped to the Northern mountains. Due to their hastiness, buildings sprouted without any care for urban planning or aesthetic. Only the churches were given some attention to details. They stand everywhere, mostly atop a mountain, with a view of the sea and the homes of their devotees. Along the roads, almost every miles, you will find small chapels, built by followers who saw their wishes come true. This is their way to thank their God for his compassion.

You'll find these chapels even far from the main roads or cities, in the middle of a treck through the mountain tops. It is in the snowcapped mountains that you can find some peace and quiet, somewhere like the commune of Laqlouq. After a very winding roads and spectacular views of the valley below, you find yourself, feet strapped into snowhoes, ready to explore the mountain side of Lebanon. Even at 1700 meters of altitude you find homes, villas, orchards, villages. However, in the winter, they are absolutely deserted, accessibility and heating being a major hindrance. You also come across unfinished houses; their construction interrupted by the winter, or the decision of their owners not to complete it. The sights of the surrounding summits through those open walls being somewhat mystical.

Few Lebanese can be found in the mountains, skiing or hiking. Most of them, who come in groups, remain at the small resort at the bottom, rent ski-doos and go around in circles all day, showing off. In order to get bragging rights, they even go as far as making snowmans on their cars. They hope that if they drive down the road carefully, they'll be able to show friends and neighbours where they've been. This makes for quite a comical scene.