People Watching

Many have mentioned it before me, but I feel the need to emphasize it, strolling down the Corniche in Beirut is like crossing the entire country. Within a few miles, you’ll encounter people of all walks of life: conservative and liberals, Christians and Muslims, young and old, rich and poor. Here is a list of what you may see on a nice and mild late afternoon, as the sun is setting down:

1. Small groups of young men dressed in tight t-shirts and jeans, their hair combed back with a little too much gel in it. Rather than facing the sea, they turn their back to it determined to whistle at every attractive lady that passes by them.

2. Women walking in pairs, exchanging the latest gossips. Sometimes it’ll be two friends, others it’ll be a mother with her 30 year old daughter.

3. Modern couples holding hands, stealing a few kisses from each other.

4. Women dressed in their veils (of all lengths), a man by their side. It is always hard to tell whether he is a cousin, a brother or a husband since few gestures can reveal the nature of their relationship.

5. AUB students, carrying their books, making plans for the night.

6. Bikers most likely discussing the latest trends in motorbikes or telling the story of their latest prouesse.

7. Courageous bathers who’ll jump from the edge of the Corniche into the sea to entertain the many passersby cheering them on.

8. Upper-class women preceded by their maid who is in charge of tending to the needs of their children.

9. Middle-aged men and women who are convinced that mild speed walking can help you shed the few extra pounds

10. More devoted runners, with their top-of-the-line Adidas outfit, their I-Pods and their defined muscles, training.

11. Teenagers rollerblading. There’s even a small permanent jump at one end of the Corniche. So far I’ve seen no one do any trick on it more than just jump.

12. Families who bring their own camping chair (there’s a definite lack of benches along the seawalk; I’ve counted only 4 of them) and sit in a semi-circle to smoke the narguile

13. Street vendors, blackened by the sun and missing a few teeths, offering tea, coffee, fresh juice or corn on the cob.

14. Men in suits, unwinding after a hard day in the office.

15. Old men playing Tric-Trac undisturbed by the surrounding traffic

16. Parked cars, their door open and with people choosing to stay in it rather than go close to the sea.

17. And the odd tourist, marveling at the diversity and liveliness of the Corniche…