Thank Allah it's Friday

Friday is to muslims what sunday is to Christians. They close their shops, school is out and most offices are closed. Rather than have to fight your wau through the crowd in the commercial alleys, you can stroll down them calmly without meeting anyone else. Rather than have to many shops to choose from (shops are arranged by products; all shoe sellers are next to each other, all underwear shops in the same corner, etc), you have to line-up to purchase basic goods sucg as bread. Rather than be assailed by the vivid colors and sparkles of the proposed merchandises you are rebuffed by iron gates on which "Alep: Islamic city 2006" is imprinted.

Nevertheless, despite all these signs of inactivity, the city is not asleep. Simply life has moved to greener spaces. Those with a car take their family to the nearby countryside but most invade one of the city's public parks. Suddenly the usual street animation finds you again. Sitting on a park bench, you'll find yourself surrounded by a host of groups of different composition. Men still dominate the landscape. Young ones, dressed to the nine, stroll down the shaded alley unafraid to hold hands (which does not mean they're homosexuals). Older ones sit down in circles, smoke the narguile (chicha) and sip small cups of coffee spiced with cardamon (delicious!). Many are accompanied by their wife (sometimes wives)and children. While the parents unwind, the children are free to run around and play. Given that most Syrian couples have at least four or five kids, it is not surprising to find some everywhere. Even more so when you realize how free kids are in this country. Most of the time they are left without surveillance and have to fend for themselves. It is nor rare to see an eight year-old flanked with two younger siblings get on the bus to travel between villages or within the city.

Despite some cries coming from a kid who just felt and hit himself on a barbel fence, everyone seems to be enjoying themselves as the sun beams through the trees' leaves. And so am I. I find myself smiling at everyone. Even at all the men that stare at me inquistively and without shame because I'm a western women without a veil.. but that is another story